测评：格拉苏蒂莫勒——2000m潜水之王

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发条鱼原创翻译



Are you like me and love top-quality German dive watches with a no-nonsense attitude? Brands like Sinn, UTS, and of course Muhle Glashutte? If you do then I have a feeling you are going to enjoy the Rasmus 2000 collection of uber divers from our friends up in Glashutte. Pay no mind to the fact that the guys who designed this watch live in the cold mountains of Saxony, pretty far from any oceans. Further, a term you see on many of their watches is "Nautische Instrumente," which obviously is "nautical instrument." The Rasmus 2000 is just one of many ocean-worthy watches from the brand, and in my opinion is one of their best looking pieces at that.

你是不是像我一样对德国顶级制表品牌有种莫名的热爱？例如辛恩，UTS，还有格拉苏蒂莫勒？如果你的回答为是，那这款来自我们熟知的德国制表重镇——格拉苏蒂的腕表可能会对你的味口，就是格拉苏蒂莫勒航海系列的Rasmus 2000。设计这款表的制表师生活在远离海洋的萨克森州寒冷山区，对于这个事实我们还是暂时忽略吧（发条鱼：哈哈哈哈哈哈）。另外，莫勒出售的很多腕表系列名称都是“Nautische Instrumente”，翻译成英语就是“nautical instrument”（发条鱼按：前者是德语，测量航行的意思） 在我看来，这款腕表是莫勒众多航海系列腕表中卖相最好的一款。



Before discussing elements of the watch itself, it is important to point out some unique things that Muhle Glashutte does. Actually Muhle Glashutte isn't alone among small German watch brands in that they don't merely use stock ETA or Sellita movements. Instead, they use these movements and build on them, adding a lot of their own, arguably improved parts. The best part is that they don't BS the buyer in dressing up the name of the movement. They could easily do that as there is a lot of their own features in many of their movements, but instead they make it clear that inside the Rasmus 2000 is a base Sellita SW200 automatic movement, but that it includes some of their own features. In this instance the SW200 has three things that make it unique for Muhle Glashutte.

在讨论这枚时计自身的设计元素之前，我需要点出一些格拉苏蒂莫勒特别的地方。实际上格拉苏蒂莫勒在德国小众腕表品牌中并不是孤立的，莫勒不仅仅只是使用ETA和SW机芯，他们还对机芯进行升级改造，加入了很多自己的性能优越的升级装置。他们并没有通过改变机芯的名称，宣称是自产机芯来欺骗消费者，其实他们这样做是很容易的，因为他们使用的机芯含有大量自己的设计。莫勒明确指出手表搭载的是SW200自动上链机芯，只不过自己对机芯进行了一些改造。在这种情况下，莫勒改造的SW200机芯有三个特点。



First, and most simply, is the unique Muhle Glashutte finishing. They claim that their own surface finishing techniques help reduce friction while increasing the longevity of the metal. Perhaps just a bit, but finishing the parts of a movement and then reassembling it is a big chore. So that does add value. Next is using a custom automatic rotor made by Muhle Glashutte. The claim it offers optimal weight and weight distribution to move as effectively as possible. Last is the patented "woodpecker neck regulation." Ever heard of a watch with a swan neck regulation? Well Muhle Glashutte has a woodpecker neck. They aren't the same thing. With this comes an entirely custom balance cock over the balance wheel. The special system is designed to prevent shock from deviating the adjustment of the balance wheel, and thereby reducing the accuracy of the watch.

第一个，也是最简单的，就是是莫勒专属的打磨技巧，莫勒的机芯打磨技术有助于减少摩擦，同时增加金属的使用寿命。也许只是一项小小的改进，但是每次打磨完一个机芯的部位然后重新组合，是一个很大的工程。可想而知，机芯的价值经过这道工序得到提升；第二个就是独特的莫勒自动陀，自动陀提供了最佳的重量和重量分布，保证高效移动；最后一个就是获得专利的“啄木鸟颈式微调”装置你们一定知道天鹅颈微调装置，而啄木鸟和天鹅颈是不一样的，啄木鸟颈式微调”装置是一个完全定制的摆轮平衡轴。该专用系统设计用于防止震动引起的平衡轴偏移，从而确保手表精度。



I think it is pretty cool that Muhle Glashutte offers these special parts. It honestly means more to me at this price than if they tried to make their own movement. The idea is that they take the best mass produced Swiss watch movements available, and improve upon them even more. Further, if you get a Muhle Glashutte watch with a chronograph, they place their own special 3/4 plate on top of base Valjoux 7750 and 7753 movements which is said to improve upon those calibers as well.

个人觉得莫勒能够做出这些改变是非常难得的一件事，在这个价位，能够有如此精细的打磨确实是很有诚意。他们将最大众的瑞士生产机芯改造成远超于其价格之上的精细程度，如果你的手中有一枚莫勒的计时腕表，就能看到他们将独创的3/4夹板置于ETA7750和ETA7753的之上，能增加腕表机芯的持久性。



Brands in Glashutte especially are very well known for regulating stock movements they purchase from other companies very well. Then again, the competition is fierce in Glashutte because many of the brands not only make their own movements, but make pretty kick-ass mechanical watch movements. Anyhow, the automatic SW200 movement in the watch has the time and date with a 38 hour power reserve.

格拉苏蒂小镇的手表品牌以改造从其他公司购买的机芯而出名，而且竞争非常激烈，因为很多品牌不仅自产机芯，还能打造顶级机械手表的机芯。总之，这款手表中的SW200自动上链机芯有日期显示功能和38小时动能储存。





The Rasmus 2000 case is in steel, and given a lovely tool-like sandblasted finishing. At 44mm wide and 17.5mm thick, it isn't a small watch, but it certainly could be larger. The case back of the watch tapers in a bit which gives the illusion it isn't as thick. It makes good use of all that metal though. The case is highly anti-magnetic and has a 3.5mm thick domed and AR coated sapphire crystal. All that gives the watch... you guess it... 2000 meters of water resistance (200 bars). If you are clever you'll notice that the dials of these watches all say "300 ATM." Yea, that is a typo on these pre-production models. It should say "200 ATM" (which it does on the retail versions).

这款Rasmus 2000的表壳由不锈钢打造，并采用独特金属拉丝打磨工艺。44mm的表盘尺寸和17.5mm的厚度着实不算小表盘，不过它完全可以更大。手表背部表壳设计呈锥形，给人一种并没有那么厚的视觉效果，很完美的利用了表壳构造设计。表壳材质高度防磁性的，并且具有3.5mm厚和夜光涂层的圆形蓝宝石水晶。你能想象到吗?这些特殊材质工艺能保证腕表潜水2000m潜水功能。如果你够细心，还能发现手表表盘上都标识有300 ATM。其实这是这些预生产的手表上一个小小的打印错误，出售产品中你能看到标识的是200 ATM。



You gotta love the screw-down crown (with guards) located at 4 o'clock and the unique rotating divers bezel. The insert with the numerals isn't just a simple ring, and the special shape is cool, and also offered in a few colors. The case is also the same as that used on the last Muhle Glashutte watch we looked at (also a diver) hands-on, the Seebataillon GMT. One element of the design that often causes confusion is the crown. On the crown is the image of a windmill. How does this relate to diving? Well it doesn't. "Muhle" however means "mill," and long ago many grain mills were powered by wind... hence the name "windmill." Further, "Muhle" is the name of the family who started the brand, so in a sense, it is their family sign.

你肯定会爱上这款手表4点钟位置的旋入式表冠设计和独特的单向旋转表圈。数字排列与表圈之上并没有形成一个简单的圆形，而是特别的酷炫的多边凸出，并用不同颜色进行点缀装。这款腕表的表壳设计和上一次我们测评的一款腕表是一样的，同样是一枚潜水表——the Seebataillon GMT。容易造成混淆的一个设计元素就是表冠。在表冠上呈现的图案是风车，这和潜水又有什么联系？好吧，其实并没有。Muhle的英文写法就是mill（小编：中文意思是工厂），很久以前很多粮食厂是由风力推动的，风车的名字由此而来。莫勒其实是品牌创始人家族的名称，所以在某种意义上，这个风车是他们家族的标志。



For many, the best part of the Rasmus 2000 is the dial. Offered in three version, the metallic dials are sharp looking and easy to read. The hands and hour markers have a lot of lume, and are attractively designed as well. Each with sunburst polish, the dials come in black (M1-28-83-KB), blue (M1-28-82-KB), and orange/yellow (M1-28-87-MB). Something about that golden metallic yellow attracts me, but I have a feeling the blue or black models sell the most being a bit more conservative.

在很多人看来，这款腕表最好看的部分就是表盘，表盘有三个不同版本，金属表盘看起来清晰易读时，手表指针和时标拥有超亮夜光涂层，设计得很有吸引力。每只腕表都经过抛光金属拉丝太阳纹打磨，表演颜色有黑色（M1-28-83 KB），蓝色（M1-28-82 KB）和橙色/金色（M1-28-87-MB）三种选择。金色表盘对于我来说更有吸引力一点，但可能相对比较保守的蓝色和黑色表盘会卖得更多。