是什么铸造了宝格丽134年的非凡成就？

由近400名员工与数十名专业制表师组成的BVLGARI宝格丽腕表团队,在品牌位于Le Sentier、Saignelégier、La Chaux-de-Fonds和Neuchtel的四大制表厂区,于毫厘分秒间,探索无穷精致的世界,追求极致精确的时计工艺。宝格丽制表融意式风格与瑞士精湛制表工艺于一身。

短短几年内,这个独一无二的组合便已拥有四项世界纪录,在21世纪制表史上占据不可撼动的地位。自2014年推出陀飞轮腕表后,相继于2016年和2017年分别推出超薄三问腕表与自动上链机械腕表。今年,宝格丽隆重推出全球最纤薄的自动上链陀飞轮腕表。这四项纪录均出自宝格丽标志性的Octo Finissimo系列,将全球最纤薄腕表推至极致。风骚独领,谁与争锋?

当前,以位于汝拉山(Jura Mountains)的四个厂区、400余名工作人员以及涵盖腕表所有部件的制造流程为基础,宝格丽制表业迅猛发展,掌握了最繁复精细的核心工艺技术。宝格丽对机械腕表机芯的制造工艺驾轻就熟,涵盖享有四项世界纪录殊荣的超薄Finissimo机芯,大复杂腕表机芯以及标准的Solotempo自动上链机芯。宝格丽掌握了全方面的制表技术,所有组件均为自制,包括金属表壳和表盘等零件的制造生产。

整个腕表制造过程由多个厂区协力完成,都遵循最悠久的传统与最精纯的工艺:Le Sentier表厂负责制造机械机芯;Saignelégier表厂专门负责制造黄金、铂金、钛金属和精钢表壳;La Chaux-de-Fonds表厂则专门生产顶级表盘。Neuchtel表厂是生产程序的控制中枢,负责组装各款腕表,并执行最后控管。

技艺超群的宝格丽工匠分布在不同的厂区,精通高度细分的数十种不同工艺,旨在将瑞士的专业技术与意大利美学创意的绝妙融合,追求极致完美。

宝格丽制表业还与宝格丽珠宝领域有着密切关系,他们共同打造精美的高级珠宝腕表。腕表与珠宝皆为宝格丽所擅长的领域,他们完美协作,成就非凡之作。与复杂功能腕表相同,制造珠宝腕表同样需要精湛的工艺。每只珠宝腕表的宝石元件,根据不同的原料特色与珍贵程度,由位于意大利Valenza的宝格丽珠宝大工坊或是罗马的高级珠宝工坊精雕细琢。此类型的生产使用传统的脱蜡铸造术,须由专业的金匠们清洁、组合,并将所有的金属元件抛光,将手链与宝石镶嵌底座等腕表元件塑形。每个细节都受到特别重视,每一个元件彼此完美地紧密相扣——这是最基本的要求,也确保佩戴腕表时手腕能够自如活动,表扣和镶嵌底座能巧妙结合。在进行镶嵌宝石这一较为复杂的工序时,工匠更需具备专业的知识与熟练的技艺,以确保每颗宝石都稳固镶嵌到位。最后,所有腕表组件、机芯送往Neuchtel表厂,进行组装,在经过最后的严谨检验管控之后,一枚精妙绝伦的腕表得以诞生于世。

BVLGARI宝格丽大中华区董事总经理

Kolia Neveux

环球网时尚频道独家视频专访BVLGARI宝格丽大中华区董事总经理Kolia Neveux:

1.Why did you choose to join the diamond industry since your major is politics and business?您是研修政治和商科的,为什么选择进入钻石行业?

I had a strong passion for precious stones. And life is made of opportunities, and I met someone who gave me my chance to become a diamond dealer, I didn’t think twice. I was very attracted by diamonds. So, I decided to dive in fully, and I did it for almost eight years with pleasure.

我本身就十分喜爱宝石,且幸得机遇垂青,经由贵人指点成为一名钻石商人。我毫不犹豫地抓住了那次机会,投身钻石这个让我深深着迷的领域。这段近八年的职业经历让我感到非常荣幸。

2. Under what circumstances did you join LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods group?是怎样的契机进去到LVMH集团,毕竟那里是全球最大的奢侈品集团?

It was mainly a moment in my life when I became a father, so when the centre of the world was no longer me but my son and this new born, this birth, brought a lot of questions. I felt that I needed to develop myself and to learn more and I restarted my studies and after graduating I met with people representing the brand Tag Heuer and it was once again a very interesting opportunity for me to work for a very dynamic brand at the time and to work with people that I can learn with and develop myself. And what is better than a brand from LVMH (? 2:07), to develop marketing skills, to develop also a lot of competences that I couldn’t develop before. So, I made this choice and once again I dived fully into this new world.

当时我成为了一名父亲,迎来了生命的重要时刻。随着新生命的到来,我的生活重心发生了转移、各项挑战也接踵而至。我意识到我需要充实自已、丰富知识储备,因此重拾学业。毕业之后,我遇到了泰格豪雅团队,这个活力十足的品牌为我开启了新的人生际遇,给到我继续学习与长大的机会。在助力员工开拓营销技能以及发展全新能力方面,没有哪家公司能比LVMH集团旗下品牌更加适合。出于这些考虑,我加入了泰格豪雅,开启了人生新篇章。

3. Men's consumption power is underestimated in China according to recent analyses by some economists, so how BVLGARI responded in terms of tapping into the men's market in that country?最近有经济学家分析,中国的男性消费被低估了,对于男性市场的开拓,宝格丽是如何积极推进的?

I would say that our top priority is naturally the ladies segment because we are a jeweller, above all, even though we have in total five divisions, we have jewellery, watches, perfume, accessories and hotel and resort. The men’s segment is a very interesting segment for us, and we are growing heavily in this segment thanks to the Octo and the recognition by the specialised price and the consumer of the strengths of the Octo watch. We are still, I would say, a bit weak in terms of offers for men’s jewellery and we are taking into considering this opportunity and I’m sure Bulgari in the coming months and coming years will try to answer this growing demand.

作为一家珠宝品牌,女性消费市场自然是宝格丽最珍视的领域。我们的业务涵盖珠宝、腕表、香氛、配饰以及酒店和度假村五大领域。同样,男性消费市场对我们具有十足的吸引力。得益于Octo系列的产品力、定价优势以及男性消费者强大的消费能力,我们在男性消费市场的份额正在大幅增长。虽然现阶段我们在男士珠宝领域的布局尚待完善,但我们将乘势而行。我相信,宝格丽将在未来数月乃至数年时间内不断推出满足此类细分市场需求的产品。

4. As a brand with a long history of 134 years, BVLGARI is widely known for its signature serpenti and architecture design elements. What is the brand’s strategy in terms of serving young consumers today?宝格丽作为一个拥有134年的品牌,最让人印象深刻的是蛇头、建筑元素,锁定当下年轻消费群的时候有哪些考虑?

I would say that millennials are of course for most of the luxury brands one of the favourite targets. The best way to make them understand the strong icons that are Serpentine, B.zero1, Diva, is to be accessible and as much as we can to develop an approach where we will give some content, give some substance and explain what our brand stands for, what those strong signs are standing for and from this perspective, craftsmanship, heritage, traditions, big exhibitions are helping us a lot to gain legitimacy with those young customers.

千禧一代对于大多数奢侈品牌来说都是最具潜力的客户群体之一。我们致力于向他们展现Serpenti、B.zero1以及Divas’ Dream系列,这些宝格丽有代表性产品的魅力与优势的价格,传达作品内涵、品牌底蕴以及标志性符号的寓意。我们致力于通过举办大型展览,从内蕴、工艺、传承、传统方面获得年轻消费者的认可。

5. Why can a piece of jewelry or a watch represent an individual style? How BVLGARI has cultivated its exceptional jewelry culture over its 134 years of business development?一件珠宝或者腕表,为什么可以代表自己的格调?宝格丽134年的探索,形成了怎样的珠宝文化?

Buglari is the magnificent women jeweller, master of colour stones. We have in all our creations a strong reference to Rome, the eternal city. B.zero1 has the same shape as the Colosseum, Diva has been inspired by the mosaic of the Caracalla Baths, so all our creations are really deeply related to our DNA. Take Octo, the octagon is a motif that was taken from a church in Rome, from the ceiling of a church. So, most of our creations are inspired by Rome, by the fact that we belong, that the company belongs to Rome and is a real Roman company. We tend to really be very close to our DNA and each creation has to relate very closely to our heritage and to our roots that make Bulgari so different. This is why as well we are very bold, we are very daring, if you look at Serpenti for example, Serpenti embodies those values of being different, being seductive, being proud and confident with yourself. This is probably at Bulgari the kind of clients we would like to have more and more.

宝格丽是意大利珠宝世家、彩色宝石大师。宝格丽根植于“永恒之城”罗马。B.zero1系列的造型源于古罗马斗兽场;Divas’ Dream系列的灵感来自卡拉卡拉大浴场(Caracalla Baths)的彩色扇形马赛克,无一不彰显宝格丽的品牌源泉。以Octo系列为例,八角形造型受到古罗马大教堂拱顶的启发。罗马是宝格丽的灵感之源,宝格丽属于罗马,由内而外散发着罗马气息。我们忠于品牌基因,为消费者奉上契合品牌传统的创作,传承品牌的精髓。这种追求决定了宝格丽果敢不羁的风格。这一点从Serpenti系列便可见一斑——Serpenti系列代表着自成一格、摄人心魄、自信笃定的态度与追求。我们期待吸引更多心意相投的消费者。

6. What will BVLGARI plan to do in terms of promoting its jewelry culture and art in the Chinese market?未来,宝格丽在中国市场上会有哪些针对珠宝文化、珠宝艺术的发展计划?

As most of our creations are inspired by Rome, by architecture, by painting, by mosaics, I would say that art is really part of our DNA. We have run several exhibitions in museums, MAXXI in Rome, we are doing a lot of brand exhibitions to make links between our creations and the art movements. One very nice exhibition that was touring the world was Serpenti Form, this exhibition was all about the theme of the snake throughout history and throughout art. And it was very interesting to remind people of the strengths of the snake symbol. Which illustrates why in the 50s we have chosen to rejuvenate this strong icon and why we are still today levering as much as we can the power of the snake for jewellery or for watch making.

宝格丽以罗马为灵感之源,从城中的建筑、画作、马赛克图案等等颇具个性的元素中汲取灵感,成就了品牌的艺术主张。我们已经成功在罗马MAXXI博物馆等多家博物馆举办展览,并且在继续进行此类的尝试,旨在通过展览讲述宝格丽创作与艺术运动之间的关系。这里向大家推荐我们的“Serpenti Form”全球巡展。巡展展现了灵蛇主题元素在历史与艺术领域的演化过程,凸显了灵蛇图腾的视觉力量。通过本次巡展,宝格丽还讲述了在上世纪五十年代重新运用灵蛇图案的幕后故事,分享了灵蛇图案至今仍活跃于宝格丽珠宝与腕表设计作品中的原因。

原文地址：https://www.wanhu888.com/article-26478-1.htmlhttps://www.toutiao.com/a6561582391620534798/