环球网时尚频道独家视频专访BVLGARI宝格丽全球运营高级经理Pascal Brandt
1. You have worked in Chaux-des-Fonds, Neuchtel, and Geneva, all of which are famous for watch-making. Did you commit to the watch industry when you were studying French literature?您所在城市拉绍德封,纳沙泰尔,日内瓦都是著名的腕表产区,是在读法国文学的时候就已经决定将来致力于腕表行业吗?
I was born in La Chaud-de-Fonds, I was raised in La Chaux-de-Fonds, then I studied in Neuchtel close to my hometown, French Literature. But, it is said in La Chaux-de-Fonds in every house you have one watchmaker, so I lived with this since I was a child. My late-father was working in this industry, my grandfather was a watchmaker so I’ve been nurtured with watches and stories and history since I was a child and I always loved watches. The reason why, I went to work in this industry as a journalist first and I’ve been freelance for 10 years based in La Chaud-de-Fonds and then I crossed to join Officine Panerai in Milan, then Vacheron Constantin in Geneva, and then Bulgari since 9 years now.
我出生在瑞士拉绍德封(La Chaux-de-Fonds),并在那里长大。之后我前往家乡附近的纳沙泰尔(Neuchtel)求学,学习法国文学。当时有一个非常流行的说法是,拉绍德封的每个家庭都会出一名钟表匠。自童年时代起,我便与钟表结下了不解之缘:先父曾在钟表界打拼多年,而我祖父本人就是一名专业的钟表匠。可以这么说,我从童年时代起便深受腕表、腕表故事及其深厚文化历史的熏陶,一直以来对腕表情有独钟。最初,我以记者的身份涉足腕表行业,并在拉绍德封历经长达10年的自由撰稿时光。在那之后,我远赴意大利米兰,加入沛纳海(Officine Panerai),之后又前往瑞士日内瓦任职江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)。再后来,也就是9年前,我与意大利珠宝世家BVLGARI宝格丽结缘,为品牌服务至今。
2. We know you had been a senior reporter before joining BVLGARI, what are your views on the promotion of brand culture? What counts as an effective promotion?我们知道在加入宝格丽之前您是一位资深记者,您是如何看待传播对于品牌文化的发酵,什么是有效的传播?
It’s an easy and difficult question. I would say it’s a difficult and easy answer. To promote a brand today requires first of all, it’s a key word for me, passion. You need to be passionate with those objects, which are so named or called watches, if you don’t have passion you can’t fight or promote your brand, your products. Me personally that’s my nature, I’m very passionate with watches, for me it’s always emotional to have a watch in your hands, I’m a guy, I’m a man of course men’s watches, but not only, when at Bulgari I touch a Serpenti high jewellery instantly I feel emotion because I love the products, I love what is behind the scenes, it’s a lot of work, it’s a lot of commitments, often we do not think about that, but such an object is the result of hundreds of hours of hard work craftsmanship, with a lot of people involved, we never see them, we see the product. I think always to the craftsman and craftswomen who work on such objects.
这个问题看似简单,实则很难,答案亦是如此。当今时代,品牌推广的第一要素是激情,这也是我工作的一大重点。只有对目标,也就是我们的腕表产品充满激情,你才会愿意为品牌和产品的推广付出努力。否则,一切都是枉然。于我而言,这种激情是与生俱来的,我对腕表情有独钟,佩戴腕表总能激发我很多思绪:作为一名男士,我钟爱男士腕表。不过,当我第一次接触到宝格丽Serpenti高级珠宝腕表时,还是瞬间被腕表所蕴含的深厚情感所感染到。这与我个人对这一系列的喜爱不无关系:它是工艺技艺的凝聚,是无数心血的结晶。虽然我们不常体会到这一点,但正是无数钟表匠人夜以继日的辛勤工作与精心雕琢,才成就了如此雍容华美的腕表。我与这些匠人素未谋面,但却时常会在脑海里浮现出他们兢兢业业、精心打造精美腕表的场景。
3. You have spent much of your personal career promoting the watch industry, so is there something that has left a deep impression on you, or to be specific, did you experience something inspirational in the process?从您的个人经历来看,非常专注于腕表行业的传播,这期间有什么印象深刻,特别是对您有启发的事件吗?
Very difficult question, very difficult answer. But I’m back to the key words, first of all passion, if you don’t have that and anyone I know in this industry, once you join this business the watch industry, whatever you do, I mean working in a company or as a watch journalist as well you stick with that industry. Impossible to change, because it’s a very emotional world, it’s a very organic industry as well. It’s not like, working in a bank or in finance or you play with figures on an excel spreadsheet all day long, it’s very virtual all that. Watches are not virtual, it’s a real object, you can touch it, its full of discoveries and surprises always. Even for me after 25 years, almost, I still learn a lot of things about watches, how to craft, how to produce. The watch industry is always innovative, has to find new materials, new ways of producing, new technical things also, and it never stops. It’s not rigid, fixed in the past industry or object, it’s always moving, moving, moving ahead and it will never stop.
这个问题很棘手,不过我仍想从一些关键要素说起,首先还是激情。如果你不具备这一特质的话,很难在这一行做出成绩。我身边的每一位腕表业同仁,无论是公司职员还是业界记者,可能角色不同,但一旦步入腕表领域,便不太会选择转行。因为腕表行业非常富有激情,同时又朝气蓬勃。打个比方,如果是在银行或金融机构任职,可能需要终日伏案处理Excel电子表格数据,工作内容非常虚拟化,而从事腕表行业则非常不同,因为它是真实存在的,你可以真切地触摸到它,而腕表也总能带给你惊喜。即便是像我这样拥有近25年从业背景的人,在腕表及制作工艺之路上依旧在不断探索、学习。腕表行业崇尚创新,在材料、生产方式以及工艺技术的创新应用方面始终走在时代前沿,从未止步。于它而言,墨守成规、沉迷过往不是主旋律;勇往直前,永不止步才是始终不变的追求。
4. Contemporary culture is deeply rooted in young generations in China. What are your perspectives on the combination of Chinese young consumers and premium brand culture?新生代文化对中国年轻人影响很深,您如何看待中国特定年轻市场与高端品牌文化之间的结合?
The watch landscape has changed during the last decade and in more recent years. I would say regarding Bulgari that we don’t have a long history regarding watch production at Bulgari, we are only for watches forty years old, compared to many other high-end contenders and competitors which are 250 years old even more. Our youth is a very positive, beneficial, advantage, it’s a strength, because we are not old-fashioned, we are not classical. We can, thanks to that younger experience, we can be very free in terms of creation, as you know we are Italians, Italians are very keen on design, you heard about design in Italy, and with Italy every day in everything, its lighting, its furniture, its cars, its watches at Bulgari as well. Look at the Octo, it is said among the top editorialists worldwide today, to be the most contemporary watch you can find on the market. It’s set to be the 21st century cult watch, and it’s not Pascal Brandt saying that, it’s the others saying that, which is a very good recognition. So, regarding young Chinese consumers, you look for difference today, of course we at Bulgari we try to offer difference, and we try double to offer difference. Why? Because the watch market is full of brands, its full of products, they all say we are different, 95% it’s not true. They propose very classical, very often old-fashioned products, which are all the same, we at Bulgari we propose difference, through design because design is a key today. If you consider the Octo compared to all the other male watches, just to name one example. You will see that most of the others are round shapes and you will see also that Octo is totally different from all the others. So, I think today it’s the way to speak to young generations also, rather than to offer dusty, dusty classical products.
过去十年间腕表行业发生了巨大的变化。特别是在近几年,变化尤为明显。许多高端腕表品牌拥有长达250年甚至更长时间的制表历史。相比之下,宝格丽涉足高级制表行业只有短短的40年。尽管我们的制表历史不能算悠久,但这却赋予了我们区别于其他竞争对手的优势:那就是锐意创新,拒绝因循守旧。这种优势也让我们在设计上拥有更大的自由度。诚如大家所知,宝格丽在意大利诞生。意大利人热衷于设计,而意大利设计的影响几乎渗透到我们生活的方方面面,小到室内照明,大到家具、汽车。当然,还包括宝格丽腕表。宝格丽Octo腕表拥有远超同类产品的现代化设计,获得全球业界权威人士的一致认可。业内人士普遍认为宝格丽Octo腕表势将成为21世纪腕表行业的偶像级产品。这一评价并非出自宝格丽品牌大使暨资深传媒总监Pascal Brandt之口,因此代表了业内对宝格丽腕表的高度认可。如今,中国的年轻消费者越来越追求个性化。这一点与宝格丽不谋而合,因为品牌始终致力于为消费者提供具有个性的腕表产品。目前,腕表市场鱼龙混杂,充斥着各类制表品牌。这些品牌全都声称他们的产品与众不同,但他们当中有95%其实都是在夸大其词。他们的产品大多雷同,缺少创新。这与宝格丽对个性的不懈追求形成鲜明对比。设计已成为当今制表行业的关键词,宝格丽始终致力于通过设计突破传统的束缚。举个例子,如果你将Octo腕表和其他男士腕表进行对比,你会发现大部分腕表均采用圆形表盘设计,而Octo腕表独特的外形则令其在众多表款中脱颖而出。我认为这才是吸引年轻一代消费者的重要因素,因为传统腕表产品的魅力已经不复存在。
6. Watch is an accessory that indicates one's personal style and characters. Based on your experience of managing multiple watch brands, what makes BVLGARI watches special from your standpoint?腕表是展现个人形象与内涵的配饰,您经手了多个腕表品牌,可以谈谈宝格丽腕表最大魅力是什么吗?
I think Bulgari watches both for men and women, as I said previously, play on difference, we look for difference. So that’s the strength of our creations today, it’s being different its being connected to today’s world, and that’s it. It’s not easy, it’s easy to say, it’s difficult to achieve or to perform that when we create something. But so far when I see what we did at the last years at Bulgari the watch creations changed a lot for us, we are now perceived as a very hot, urban, contemporary brand, both for men and for women. And this is the best recognition we can deserve, because it’s a lot of work for my colleagues at Bulgari watch division in Switzerland.
正如我前面提到的那样,宝格丽男士和女士腕表均拥有独特的设计风格。这就是宝格丽腕表的魅力所在:它们既与众不同,又紧跟时代潮流。这样的融合说起来容易,但要实现起来却很困难。得益于品牌近些年来的努力,宝格丽在制表领域取得了长足进步。如今,无论是在男士或是女士制表业,宝格丽已发展成为公认的充满现代都市气息的腕表品牌。宝格丽非常珍惜这份认可,这是我们位于瑞士制表部门全体同事共同努力的结果。
7. What changes do you take as global trends that will transform the watch-making industry? How will BVLGARI take advantage of these trends to step up its brand promotion?腕表有哪些全球趋势性的变化,作为品牌传播来说,如何把握趋势?
The industry is changing and has changed. Twenty, twenty-five years ago buying a watch was aimed to know what time it is, this disappeared. The function of the watch is not today to know what time it is, we all have cell phones, one, two, maybe three in Italy, ladies especially. Now it’s not functional anymore the watch, the watch is just a piece of emotion, you love it you hate it, you want something that is your personality mirror, expression. So that’s why you buy a watch, or you are very knowledgeable and you look for something which is technically a collecting piece, a collector’s item, but you don’t want classical, old-fashioned collector’s items. You want a complication that is rooted into today’s world. For example, Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in carbon, we launched this year. It’s typical of what I’m saying, it’s very Bulgari because its disruptive, it’s the combination between the ultimate traditional movement, the chiming watch minute repeating, with a super high-tech case and bracelet. This is Bulgari because Bulgari is the only brand doing that kind of thing, if you consider a traditional Swiss watch brand proposing a new minute repeater, it will be most often proposed in a round shape case and in platinum or gold, so nothing new. Even if I pay tribute to those brands, for sure. But ours is totally disruptive in this landscape and we try to do things that are disruptive. I would sum up on that point and say Bulgari does things that others do not, we go where others don’t.
制表行业正在经历变革,变化已经悄然发生。二十或二十五年前,大家买腕表的主要目的是方便查看时间。而如今,这种购买意图已不复存在。当前,腕表的主要功用已经不再是显示时间。在意大利,现在我们每个人都有手机,尤其是女性,有的或许拥有两部甚至三部手机,我们可以通过手机查看时间。腕表的功能性正在逐渐消失,取而代之更多的是它所具有的情感价值。你想要的是能够体现你独特个性和个人喜好的产品,这或许就是购买腕表的原因吧。又或是满腹学识的你想要一款具有收藏价值的腕表,一款收藏家珍品。不过,也许你并不喜欢收藏家青睐的传统、老旧的款式。你想要的是彰显现代时尚风范且具有收藏意义的腕表。我们今年推出的采用碳纤维材质打造的Octo Finissimo三问腕表就是非常不错的选择。这款腕表传承宝格丽突破创新的精髓,配备传统机芯、三问报时装置以及科技感十足的表壳和表链。这就是宝格丽代表性的创新力作,只有宝格丽才能成就这样颇具颠覆性的创新之举。经典瑞士腕表品牌在打造新款三问报时腕表时,通常会选择采用圆形表壳和铂金或黄金材质,没什么充满新意的元素。当然,我个人对这些经典品牌满怀敬意,不过我们的品牌更富开拓创新精神,我们也确实在不断进行颠覆性的创新尝试。一句话总结,宝格丽不走寻常路,致力于呈现不同寻常的佳作。
8. Some people say that men's consumption power is underestimated, so what are BVLGARI's strategic plans in terms of promoting men's watches?有人认为男性消费实力被低估了,在男性腕表市场宣传方面,宝格丽有哪些策略?
I think sincerity, honesty are the key elements to reply to that question. Today we live in a very connected, digital world, things go fast. When I started journalism 25 years ago it was the empire of paper, today we have digital, everything goes fast, so you have to be as a brand, transparent, you have to be committed to honesty, reality and sincerity. You cannot anymore say anything about your identity, what you say thanks to digital, what you say must be matching with your reality. So, this is a big progress in terms of communication, but it’s a big challenge for us as well. So, for me key words are sincerity, honesty.
我认为真诚和诚信是两大关键要素。如今,我们生活在一个互联和数字化的时代,万物发展瞬息万变。25年前在我开始从事新闻工作时,媒体传播行业还正处于纸媒统治的时代,而如今,世界却已进入数字化时代。弹指之间,世事早已发生翻天覆地的变化。在这样的时代背景下,品牌需要坚守透明公开、真诚信用和真实无欺的原则。面对数字化时代,品牌在宣传方面需要求真务实、实事求是,不能毫无底线地随意宣传。这是品牌宣传领域的一大进步,同时对我们而言也是一项新的重大挑战。在我看来,真诚和诚信是应对这一挑战的两大关键。
原文地址：https://www.wanhu888.com/article-26478-1.htmlhttps://www.toutiao.com/a6561689530628309508/ |
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